If your rabbit is to live indoors, it is advisable to ensure your bunny is litter-trained,
preferably from 4-5 weeks of age, ie soon after leaving the nest.
Most of our bunnies are litter-trained (by their mother and breeder) from an early
age, but there can be 'accidents' with a young rabbit or when there is a disruption
in their lives - such as moving to a new home. Although they may be 100% litter-trained
in their birth hutch, they might need a little extra training as they adapt to their
new home. However, they soon learn and their early potty-training pays dividends
- and can greatly impress (and surprise!) new bunny owners.
A plastic litter-tray (widely available for cats) is ideal for smaller bunnies.
For large breeds, potting trays (or, even better, an 'igloo' design 'Cat Loo' with
a deeper tray covered by a plastic hood can be useful. Some designs have an odour
absorbing filter in the hood and is less unsightly than an open litter tray. It
can easily be carried from room to room to accompany your bunny as s/he travels around
the house - if you tend to keep doors closed.
If you are worried about urine odours in your home, then we highly recommend Carefresh
bedding which we've thoroughly tested and found to absorb odours very effectively.
When you introduce your new bunny to your home, try and give him his own space and
keep him/her confined to this small area while s/he settles in. If s/he is suddenly
introduced to a large area, then s/he's likely to 'go mad' and scatter droppings
everywhere and perhaps leave a few puddles. Instead, having his/her 'own space'
will encourage him/her to use just one corner. Where s/he chooses, is the place
to pop his/her litter-tray. If it's not exactly to his liking, he'll either stubbornly
persist in using the corner of your best carpet or drag the tray to his preferred
corner himself. If he chooses the centre of your best sofa, don't despair - but
simply pop the tray there (remembering, of course, to remove it when your posh friends
come for a visit!). Gradually move the tray to one side of the sofa, then onto the
floor and then gradually into a more discreet corner. It can take a couple of weeks
but it's worth investing the time in litter-training a house-bunny. Your carpets
will also agree.
If your bunny is to become a hutch-bunny then litter training is less critical -
but it is very convenient. Most prefer their litter tray to be in the enclosed 'sleeping
area' (it's actually quite rare to find a bunny sleeping in his 'bedroom'!) - perhaps
they're shy and like to have some privacy?!!
Uncovered litter trays should be lined with a 2" layer of wood-shavings (or other
litter) and stand on a further tray or sheet (to catch shavings kicked out when bunny
jumps out). If your rabbit doesn't immediately understand the purpose of the litter
tray, scoop up a few of his/her fresh droppings and deposit these in a corner of
the tray. Next time bunny squats with that tell-tale give-away expression of concentration,
scoop him/her up and gently place him/her in the tray. He/she will soon learn and
regularly use the tray. This should be emptied and cleaned daily.
If your bunny still doesn't understand what the litter-tray is for, then try confining
him/her to a much smaller area and gradually increase this area as litter-training
progresses. Bunnies naturally do not like to soil their living area so, when forced
into a smaller area, our bunnies will deposit their droppings in one area only -
and this is the spot to place the litter tray. Also ensure the rest of the hutch
floor is completely bare so that the tray becomes the most comfortable area of the
hutch. It may look a little 'odd' at first but it does work. Your bun won't like
to 'paddle' in urine so she'll naturally choose the most absorbent area and, hey
presto, bun is litter-trained!! Once the tray is in use then further bedding etc
can be added to the hutch.
Should your bunny have 'accidents' then these should be scooped up and placed in
the preferred corner of the litter tray - preferable whilst the guilty party is watching
you. Similarly, should your bunny squat down, tail raised with an expression of
concentration, scoop him up, pop him in the tray and make a fuss of him while s/he
continues to perform. Nose-rubs, treats, hay etc can be used as rewards.
Once litter-trained, there might be the occasional stray dropping deposited outside
the tray - often there is no need to scoop these up as your bunny will eat them next
time he/she passes them. This is perfectly normal rabbit behaviour - especially
amongst house-rabbits. Caecotroph pellets might also be deposited in the centre
of your lounge carpet but, again, your bunny will probably return to eat these very
soon.
Occasionally, some rabbits become so house-trained they will not even soil their
litter-tray and manage to 'hang-on' overnight for up to a bladder-stretching 12 hours.
In these cases, you need to ensure you can take your rabbit into a favoured corner
of the garden (they'll choose the spot for you!) at 4-6 hourly intervals as a minimum.
Some cat litters are also suitable for rabbits - but please avoid the 'clumping'
variety as these could lead to internal blockages if your bunny decided to eat any.
Carefresh litter is designed specifically for bunnies and other small animals and
is perfect for house-bunnies as it is extremely effective in absorbing odours.
Bunny-Proofing your Home
Your rabbit might chew so please ensure his/her environment is safe and there are
no trailing electrical cables. These should be tucked beneath carpets, threaded
through tubing (loo overflow pipe is ideal or tough tubing can be purchased from
aquatic suppliers) or taped to skirting boards to ensure they are out of temptation's
way. Telephone and modem cables are especially enjoyed so please ensure these are
safely tucked out of reach! Visitors might not understand why you have plumbing
parts around your lounge and phone cables sealed down with masking tape - but you'll
soon get used to it!!!
If your bunny likes to join you to 'surf the net' or send emails to his/her bunny-friends,
please ensure the mouse cable is well out of reach. A quick nibble and you'll find
your mouse isn't quite as lively as your bunny!
As for your bed, bunnies do seem to enjoy joining their owners for a snuggle beneath
the duvet. However, they also seem to like to empty their bladder, or leave a fresh
pile of droppings, on the side of the duvet occupied by their closest carer - so,
be warned!
If your bunny nibbles wallpaper in a favoured spot, then a clear sheet of perspex
over will prevent this. As for carpet-chewing, we don't recommend this as part of
their diet.
