A BOY OR A GIRL?

Male and female rabbits each have advantages and disadvantages, although much depends upon the temperament of the individual rabbit and early 'bunnyhood' experiences. 

Males tend to make much better pets, bond with their owner and can be much more affectionate.  However, they can also spray urine and are more likely to become amorous with brushes, fluffy slippers and soft toys!  Two adult males housed together are likely to fight, although docile litter-mates who have been together from birth can remain good friends, particularly Netherland Dwarfs.  However, anyone adopting two males together (which must be litter-mates) must be prepared to have them both neutered (see neutering page) in the future or house them separately if this proves necessary.  

Rabbits should NOT be paired with guinea pigs as they are very different species with different temperaments who communicate in different ways, eat a different diet to suit their different nutritional requirements and are generally incompatible with rabbits having a tendency to bully, and often injure, naturally-timid guinea pigs who can retaliate with a nasty nip.  Please see the companionship page for further information.

It is advisable NOT to have any unspayed does within 'smelling distance' if you are housing two uncastrated males together as this can encourage spraying and sexual frustration.

Pubescent or un-mated females can become irritable (bunny-'PMT'?!), have false pregnancies (whereby they build a nest and pluck out their fur) and may dig a burrow in your garden.  Unlike other female animals, rabbits do not come into 'season' and females tend to be more aggressive than males.   Two or more females can happily live together, especially if they have been spayed, and they  interact well in small groups.

However, these are only generalisations and their background, breeding and personality characteristics are much more important factors when choosing your new pet(s).

When our bunnies are adopted, we show buyers how to identify the difference between males and females.  If you are adopting a pair of opposite sexes then we stress the importance of having one neutered, usually the male and will show you what to look for.  Once the testicles descend then this is the time to book an appointment with the vet and, remember, the male can remain fertile for up to a month following his castration so we urge to you have him 'seen to' as soon as there is anything present to remove!  

Puberty can be as early as 10-12 weeks in a male - so please keep a very close eye on his nether regions!!

Rather than keep him permanently isolated from his girlfriend, you could dress him or her (or both) in a 'nappy' which will prevent any accidental mating - but please supervise both partners to ensure they don't undress in front of each other!!!

We sex our baby rabbits shortly after birth.  However, this is much easier once the rabbit reaches 3 weeks of age when the gender is much clearer and more developed.  Very occasionally a male can exhibit a 'split penis' (hypospadius) whereby the tip appears to have a 'slit' closely resembling the slit of the female's vulval opening.  In these cases we cannot 100% guarantee the sex of a baby so affected.  As the genitals develop, the gender will become much more obvious, especially when the testicles appear making sexing conclusive.

TWO'S COMPANY?

Rabbits are social animals who live together in groups in the wild and enjoy company.  This extends to domestic bunnies who need the companionship of either a bunny-friend or their human slave.

If your bunny is to live outdoors then we would always recommend adopting a pair of bunnies to ensure they have constant companionship to help prevent boredom.  However, this is optional for house-bunnies who tend to receive more attention and interaction due to already being part of the household.

Female rabbits will usually live happily together providing they are introduced on neutral territory at a young age, ideally very soon after weaning.  Much depends on the temperament of individual rabbits: some will become best friends within minutes while others take longer to settle down or might fight.  With older does, patience may be needed as there can initially be hostility and fighting - but some bond with other females almost instantly.  

Any fighting or hostility can be minimised or avoided by introducing the rabbits gradually - allowing them to see/sniff each other from their respective hutches which are moved closer together, then both meet for a cuddle together on your knee and gradually progress to meeting on new territory such as a new hutch or run.  Alternatively, two female litter-mates usually remain best friends, providing they are spayed after puberty - usually at around 6 months of age when their internal organs are larger.

We do not recommend housing rabbits and guinea pigs together as they are very different animals with very different needs - and you would never see the two living together in the wild!

Two males together can fight (although we've kept many adult male littermates together without any fighting) while a male and female together will have unplanned litters (potentially inbreeding) and 2 females can have more false pregnancies than solitary females.  

We much prefer our bunnies to be adopted in pairs where possible - the ideal pairing being a brother and sister  - but the male MUST be castrated at puberty, ie between 12-16/18 weeks of age - we will show you what to look for(!!)  

The second choice of a pairing would be 2 sisters (we recommend both are spayed at 6 months of age) but, if you are choosing just one bunny for now with the intention of adopting another later, then we'd strongly recommend buying a boy first.  He could then settle in and be castrated at 3-4/5 months and then meet his girlfriend shortly afterwards.   

As soon as 'filled' testicles appear, then it's time to take a male along to the vet.  A mature adult can still be fertile for up to a month so it's important to ensure you have him castrated ASAP.  Females can be spayed which involves more major surgery but, once she's had chance to recover, she can be returned to her boyfriend.  

We feel that keeping bunnies in pairs is even more important for hutched bunnies living outdoors in the garden to ensure they always have some company rather than lead a life of isolation with less human interaction.  A single bunny is always at risk of suffering from boredom although this can be reduced a little by providing stimulating toys and varying them, perhaps offering different toys on a rota.  Indoor bunnies tend to receive attention and stimulation throughout the day.

Young male rabbits usually live together in harmony.  However, older males who have reached sexual maturity at about 12 weeks, and are suddenly introduced will almost inevitably fight.  Such fights can be quite aggressive involving bighting which can cause serious wounds.   Therefore, if you are planning to own more than one male, you need to ensure they are introduced as youngsters - preferably litter-mates, or be prepared to house them separately or, as a last resort, have them castrated.   This is a very simple operation involving only a very short anaesthetic often for only 3 minutes followed by a rapid recovery.  

Males can make especially affectionate pets but they can also spray urine - especially if you bend to pick grass from 'their' favourite corner of the lawn, marking you, their owner, as their substitute 'mate'.  A soft toy rabbit can be of benefit to an uncastrated male!

An un-neutered male and female, housed together, will reproduce ........ rapidly!

Castration:

As soon as 'filled' testicles appear, then it's time to take your boy along to the vet.  

A mature adult can still be fertile for up to a month so it's important to ensure have him castrated ASAP.  Females can be spayed which involves more major surgery but, once she's had chance to recover, she can be returned to her boyfriend. 

PLEASE REMEMBER THESE ARE GENERALISATIONS AND THE PERSONALITY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE INDIVIDUAL BUNNY CAN OVER-RIDE ALL OF THESE.

Please see also NEUTERING

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